Wintours Leap - May 3rd 2009

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Wintours Leap May 3rd 2009

Martin and Paul paid a visit to Wintours Leap, the 2nd real climbing trip of 2009 for Martin and the first for Paul. On the day's wish list was Nibelheim, a 300 foot (ish) VS route with a nice overhang to negotiate on the first pitch and "steeper, delicate moves" on the 4C crux pitch, pitch #3. Martin and Paul had both climbed the route before but never together (although they'd climbed the first pitch as an end of day exercise in October 2007 and had often used the last pitch as the exit from The Great Ledge when climbing other routes). Martin had only ever led one other VS 4C too, a single pitch route at Hobson Moor Quarry in the Peak District way back in 2005 so it was a challenging choice.

Martin led the first pitch (4B), which proved to be in sub-optimal condition, a trifle damp here and there... typical of Wintours Leap as the dense tree line significantly slows the rate at which the lower parts of the routes dry out. The overhang proved more challenging than Martin remembered from previous attempts, but was dealt with after some pondering and Martin settled in to belay Paul up, anchored to a substantial tree.

Paul led the second pitch (4A) which had a surprisingly blank and intimidating start with the first gear being placed about 3 metres up from the stance. Once again, a tree acted as the anchor point with a moderately uncomfortable platform for Paul's feet behind it.

Martin didn't hang about at the stance and took a deep breath to step up and lead the crux pitch (4C) with its moderately technical and balancy "delicate moves" on the steep upper part of the pitch. The first part of the pitch is fairly easy to protect, so Martin made the most of that. The crux however requires you to climb a fairly blank section of rock with only a couple of finger-tip width ledges for your hands and your last protection feeling like it's miles below you until you can eventually reach and clip into a peg (with a huge sigh of relief!). After that it's fairly plane sailing to the top of the pitch which is the wonderfully spacious "Great Ledge".

Paul made it up pitch three (with one or two expletives at the crux) and proceeded to lead the final and quite long pitch 4 (4A). We'd both led this pitch on previous occassions and it's pretty good value. The first part is scrappy and easy which is a slight shame, but the middle section approaching and up through the "v-shaped cleft" is great. Paul had to think about the move into the V but made it and Martin followed, the only "drama" being when a guy who could perhaps be better described as "an idiot", "muppet" or worse, started to abseil down the route Martin was climbing, despite having being told by Paul that Martin was there! Martin handled the situation by "explaining" to the guy that he should wait and that did the trick.

The End. We looked at maybe doing a single pitch route.... but they're all so horribly polished at Wintours Leap we really couldn't be bothered... so we called it a day. And a good day it was too!

	Pitch 1. Note the 2 slabs right at the top which form a reasonably substantial overhang to get over. Classic stuff, with the fingers of your left hand jammed into the crack where the horizintal underside of the overhang meets the vertical rock, feet up, lean back until your head pops out and around the overhang, reach up and over to good holds, adjust your feet and.... pull!		Martin, ready to lead pitch 1!		Paul, indicating non-verbally that this is the route we're about to climb.... or doing his "John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever" impression. One of the two :-)		Fast forward to the top of pitch 3. Martin sitting comfortably at the Great Ledge, 200 feet above the ground and after completing probably his hardest lead ever and then belaying Paul up.
	Paul at the start of the interesting section of pitch 4. Note the v-shaped cleft above him....		The Great Ledge... and an Argentian climber who just finished Left Hand Route (HS).		You can just see Paul who has made it through the V and is on the last, steep section.		Taken by Martin on the way up...somehow. A nice view of Paul's microcam placement and hopefully some indication of what this section is like to climb.